When it comes to skincare, there are countless alleged “miracle” serums and elixirs. Fact is, only a handful of active substances are clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Retinol – a derivative of vitamin A – is considered the ultimate anti-aging ingredient. Speeding up cell turnover, it thickens the skin, and boosts and protects the natural collagen production to combat fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores, acne marks and dark spots.
It further introduces matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). These enzymes are essential to the remodeling of the extracellular matrix. Upregulation, however, facilitates aging and certain skin diseases. Retinol lowers MMPs. It also blocks the molecules that can cause inflammation. That’s why it helps with acne.
There is a wide array of different types of retinol, called retinoids, with varying concentration levels. Weaker forms can be purchased over the counter to help treat mild acne or reduce signs of aging. Stronger forms are only available through a doctor’s prescription.
Why people fear retinoids
Some people believe their skin is too sensitive for retinoids, others have tried them and discontinued due to a reaction. The truth is that almost every skin can benefit from retinoids. They initially can cause peeling and some redness, a process called facial retinization. One should be aware that this is normal and even to be expected.
How to getting started
Every skin has its own idiosyncrasies. Here are some tips to make your retinoid journey successful, even if you’ve had trouble in the past.
Do start with a gentle cleanser with no harsh/exfoliating acids. For beginners, apply retinol only at night time at 0.3 to 0.5% once or twice a week. Gradually build threshold to 5 to 6 times a week with one retinol free day.
There are several methods to apply retinol:
- Apply to clean, dry skin and follow it up with a moisturizer.
- Apply moisturizer first and then follow with retinol.
- Mix a small amount of moisturizer with your retinol before applying onto the skin.
- Wedge your retinol thin layers of moisturizers.
Simply choose what suits you best. Since retinol may contribute to sun sensitivity, especially in the beginning, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher each morning.
Again, temporary redness, dryness, and flaking skin are common skin discomforts often associated with first time pure-retinol use. Do not give up and be patient. Healthy and beautiful skin is not an overnight process.
4 tips for successful use
1. Choose the right form of retinoid.
2. Find your particular order to apply.
3. Make it a consistent part of your skin care routine.
4. Be patient.
- Zürich,Dezember 16, 2022
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