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New Ways to De-Age

10 years ago, scientists proposed two new mechanisms of skin aging. While the world of aesthetics was talking mostly about collagen depletion, these scientists suggested something different: It’s the overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs.) on one hand and the reduced production of heat shock proteins (HSPs) on the other. They believed that the modulation of these tissue enzymes and proteins, MMPs and HSPs, would present a new a strategy to improve skin. In a study they assessed the efficacy of high frequency ultrasound up to 10 MHz. 10 MHz means the energy targets the upper layers of the skin, which is ideal for skin treatments. That was when we at FRISCH read for the first time of the use of high frequency ultrasound in skin anti-aging and the dual frequency use. “Dual use” means that two frequencies are used in rapid alteration in one single wave to intensify the effect of ultrasound. Guess, which device was used? Yes, the LDM Med! The scientists were able to show that after the treatment the water content in the skin (skin turgor) improved, pore size was reduced, as well as the appearance of wrinkles. Their findings, the scientist concluded, “pointed to a spatial rearrangement of the connective tissue structure, with subsequent increase of collagen and water content.” Today, 10 MHz has almost doubled to the ultra-high frequency of 19 MHz with the LDM Triple. And “Triple” stands for three frequencies in one wave. The developer of both devices, Ilja Kruglikov himself, belonged to the authors who proposed the two mechanisms of skin aging (Facial Skin Rejuvenation with High Frequency Ultrasound: Multicenter Study of Dual-Frequency Ultrasound, Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2012, 2, 68-73). Zürich,Januar 23, 2023

Safe fun in the sun

Summer has arrived! The days are long, and the sun is bright. As we venture into the sunny outdoors, it is important to remember that too much sun can be harmful to our skin. Wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation changes are inevitable woes as we age. While we like to place blame on getting older, the main culprit is photoaging – severe cumulated skin damage caused by repetitive exposure to sunlight and ultraviolet light throughout our life. Photoaging is responsible for almost all or most visible changes to the skin. Besides obvious aging signs, the sun is also responsible for inflammation associated with redness issues, capillary distention, flares of rosacea, and other inflammatory damage. Yet many people continue to bask in the sun’s rays, achieving a golden tan but also accumulating terrible damage to the skin. This is something we are all aware of. But how exactly does it happen? How the sun affects the skin Let us first distinguish the different types of sunrays. UV radiation is divided into three main types based on wavelength: UVC rays (200 – 280 nm) are the most energetic and damaging of the three rays. Fortunately, UVC is predominately filtered by the ozone layer in the stratosphere before reaching the earth’s surface.   UVB rays (280 – 320 nm) are mainly absorbed by the epidermis but possess higher energy than UVA rays. They affect the outer layer of the skin leading to sunburns, temporary tans and pigmental shifts. UVA rays (320 – 400 nm) are longer rays and therefore penetrate deeper into the dermis and the precious collagen and elastin fibrils. They provide a long-lasting tan and lead to long-term changes in pigmentation. Although UVA burns only in large doses, it is now thought to be the primary type of light-related sun damage that causes the effects of photoaging. Be sure to take additional care even when at home since standard window glass will allow UVA to pass through while almost 100% of the UVB und UVC light is blocked. Various types of DNA damage When a harmful sunray hits the skin, it damages our genetic material, namely DNA. Located in the cell’s nucleus and bound into itself, it presents our most sensitive molecular structure. Once our genetic code has been damaged and therefore changed it leads to misinformation and long-term mutations. Entering through epidermis and dermis, UV-radiation reaches melanocytes, that are embedded at the junction of the skin layers. Melanocytes are the cells that produce melanin giving human skin its color. Together with the natural epidermal barrier, they act as a protection shield from sunlight. A healthy skin barrier consists of 57% triglycerids, 25% wax esters, 15% squalane, 2% cholesterol ester, and 1% cholesterol. Typically, there are between 1000 and 2000 melanocytes per square millimeter of skin. Melanocytes are besides sun influenced by hormones, antidepressants, age, free radicals, inflammation and autoimmune diseases.  The melanocyte is a highly sensitive diva. On a daily basis, each and every cell is exposed to 10’000 attacks or environmental lesions whereas UV rays make up most of this. Once hit, the DNA initiates a photochemical reaction. Depending on the degree of severity this eventually will result in a DNA break. This in turn leads to an accumulation of senescent cells – so called ‘zombie cells’ that refuse to die, but still ‘hang around’ and release SASP (senescent associated secretory phenotype) – which compromise skin function and integrity. It also leads to an increase in matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). These enzymes are capable of degrading all kinds of extracellular matrix proteins which induces a destruction of collagen. Elastase gets released, another enzyme that destroys elastin which is directly reflected by wrinkles and sagging skin.   The sun also damages the melanocyte and the keratinocytes which leads to an uneven spread of colour resulting in blotchy, dull and uneven pigmented skin without luster. Safety tips Sunburn is highly demanding in terms of DNA repair since long-term repair mechanisms are constantly overstressed. Cumulative sun damage over lifetime can lead to mutations like melanoma, basalioma and squamus cell carcinoma.  Prevention is the only way to truly save your skin. Here is what you can do: Use a broad-spectrum physical sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater – every day, rain or shine, summer and winter. You get your sun damage not only when lying on the beach. Apply your sunscreen 15 to 30 minutes before stepping outside. Also use a lip balm with sunscreen. Regular reapplication is even more important than the SPF. Be extra careful around water and sand. These surfaces reflect the damaging rays, which can increase your chance of getting a sunburn.   Protect your children. 80 percent of all cumulative damages occur before the age of 18. If possible, wear sun protective gear. Accessorize with a hat and a pair of sunglasses. Also be aware that some medications make your skin more sensitive. Eat smart to additionally protect your skin from the sun. Beta carotene from carrots and lycopene from tomatoes provide your skin with a certain extra degree of edible protection. Upgrade your car windows with a UV protection. Chemical vs. physical sunscreen The key difference between these types of sunscreens lies in how they block rays. Physical sunscreens use minerals (mainly titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) that sit on the surface of your skin and act as a shield reflecting the sun’s rays away. Chemical sunscreens though sink into your skin and act more like a sponge. These use ingredients that absorb and transform UV rays into heat, and release them from the body. While the UV-filtering chemicals need time to soak into your skin to form a layer of protection, physical blockers, on the other hand, start working immediately upon application. How to minimize and repair visible sun damage Vitamin A (Retinol) and its many derivatives, called Retinoids, are the royalty of skincare ingredients. Retinol is one of the well-known over the counter ingredient which visibly diminishes the appearance of aging signs caused by the sun. A sufficient …

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Beyond skin deep

Our skin is a big deal – literally. With a total area of around 20 square feet and a weight of several kilos it is not only the most visible but also the largest organ in the body. In fact, each inch is made up of 19 million skin cells, 650 sweat glands, 20 blood vessels and 1’000 nerve endings. Taking good care of our skin is important for more than just the appearance. Our skin is essential to our general health. If we take care of it, it can help take care of us. What’s the skin’s job? Our skin is divided into three layers known as the epidermis, dermis and subcutis. The epidermis is the outermost, cellular layer of the skin. It renews itself constantly, with new epidermal cells arising from the lower cell layer of the epidermis. As the epidermal cells mature, they gradually rise to the surface of the skin where they ultimately die and are shed. Beneath, multiple times thicker, lies the dermis giving the skin its integrity, strength and elasticity. Finally, below the dermis rests the subcutis, a specialized lower layer of adipose (fat) and fibrous tissue. It cushions the body from external trauma, insulates from the cold and stores energy. The extraordinary array of functions performed by our skin is respectable: It protects against the outside world Helps regulate the body temperature Serves as UV-protection Acts as immune defence Synthesizes vitamin D (which de facto is a hormone) Takes care of our wound healing Contains nerve receptors that allow us to touch, feel pain and pressure Great skin is not simply a matter of DNA If life is about change, skin is the proof. As we age, our dermis loses collagen and elastin causing the skin to sag and develop wrinkles. Other visible signs of aging include thinning of the skin, age spots, inflammations, redness, areas of dryness and enlarged pores. Also, the blood vessels of the dermis become more fragile which leads to bruising bleeding under the skin. The reason collagen decreases is complex. Partly it is due to the reduced function of the cells that build collagen and an increase in the enzyme that breaks down collagen. This in turn leads to an accumulation of cellular ‘waste’ causing a shift of the cellular milieu. Imagine a pond where the water no longer flows. We silt up, so to speak. This is also the reason why the communication between the cells sometimes no longer works properly. Also, inflammatory mediators are getting increased and cell division is slowing down. But intrinsic factors are not the whole story. Environment, lifestyle and daily habits play an even more important role in skin aging and have a big impact on what we see in the mirror. In fact, changes induced by external factors count in with solid 80%. Sun exposure is one of the most harmful influencers. UV light breaks down elastin in the dermis, causing saggy, stretchy skin. The skin also bruises and tears more easily and takes longer to heal (learn more about UV damages and how to prevent them here). Smoking on the other hand results in insufficient oxygen supply to the skin and blocked blood vessels. It reduces immunity and increases the level of an enzyme that breaks down collagen. Smoking also increases wrinkles around the mouth, as well as dryness, coarseness and a dull appearance of the skin. Alongside with nutrition, stress and a lack of sleep it can also play a role, how we sleep. Commonly seen on the side of the forehead as well as on the middle of the cheeks, sleep creases result from the way the head is positioned on the pillow. Sleeping on your back is your best bet for avoiding skin crinkles. If that is not comfortable, at least alternate which side of your face you sleep on at night. How to slow down skin aging As we all know one cannot rewind the clock. But we can take steps to reduce and slow down time’s unwanted effects on our skin. While protection and prevention are a lifelong process here is how you can keep your skin looking younger for longer: Limit sun exposure, wear protective clothing and use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher when outdoors, even in the winter. If you smoke, quit. Eat a well-balanced, healthy diet, give vegetables in rainbow color a go to nourish your skin from the inside.   Choose a diversity of foods including fermented foods to keep your microbiome diverse since this impacts how you and your skin age. Drink more adequate fluids and less alcohol. Manage your stress level. Relax and try meditation. Exercise regularly. Get enough sleep. Provide your skin with actives that improve cell function with effective ingredients such as vitamin A (retinol) and C (ascorbic acid) as well as peptides. Moisturize well if needed to keep the skin barrier healthy. Care for your skin gently by using soaps, body washes or shampoos that are ‘neutral’ or rather pH-balanced and sulfate free Perform facial yoga. Ensure good face posture. Face muscles also release cytokines that are beneficial for your skin. Try not to frown. Consider anti-aging supplements like Resveratrol, NMN, Calcium-alpha-ketoglutarate, Glucosamin, Fisetin, Quercetin etc. Consult an anti-aging specialist who can guide and help you implement skin longevity lifestyle changes as well as set up a individualized plan for you. These lifestyle changes not only are beneficial for our skin health but also help improve our overall health and well-being. Anti-Aging treatments that really work Today, there are several effective non-surgical youth enhancers that address the age-related changes occurring over time. Anti-aging treatments like microneedling, ultrasound, lasers, peels, and photobiomodulation are some of the best non-invasive ways to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and minor skin discolorations. As you age, you may choose to include some of them as part of your skincare regimen. Zürich,Dezember 16, 2022

Retinol – the holy grail of anti-aging

When it comes to skincare, there are countless alleged “miracle” serums and elixirs. Fact is, only a handful of active substances are clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Retinol – a derivative of vitamin A – is considered the ultimate anti-aging ingredient. Speeding up cell turnover, it thickens the skin, and boosts and protects the natural collagen production to combat fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores, acne marks and dark spots. It further introduces matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). These enzymes are essential to the remodeling of the extracellular matrix. Upregulation, however, facilitates aging and certain skin diseases. Retinol lowers MMPs. It also blocks the molecules that can cause inflammation. That’s why it helps with acne. There is a wide array of different types of retinol, called retinoids, with varying concentration levels. Weaker forms can be purchased over the counter to help treat mild acne or reduce signs of aging. Stronger forms are only available through a doctor’s prescription. Why people fear retinoids Some people believe their skin is too sensitive for retinoids, others have tried them and discontinued due to a reaction. The truth is that almost every skin can benefit from retinoids. They initially can cause peeling and some redness, a process called facial retinization. One should be aware that this is normal and even to be expected. How to getting started Every skin has its own idiosyncrasies. Here are some tips to make your retinoid journey successful, even if you’ve had trouble in the past. Do start with a gentle cleanser with no harsh/exfoliating acids. For beginners, apply retinol only at night time at 0.3 to 0.5% once or twice a week. Gradually build threshold to 5 to 6 times a week with one retinol free day. There are several methods to apply retinol:     Apply to clean, dry skin and follow it up with a moisturizer.     Apply moisturizer first and then follow with retinol.     Mix a small amount of moisturizer with your retinol before applying onto the skin.     Wedge your retinol thin layers of moisturizers. Simply choose what suits you best. Since retinol may contribute to sun sensitivity, especially in the beginning, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher each morning. Again, temporary redness, dryness, and flaking skin are common skin discomforts often associated with first time pure-retinol use. Do not give up and be patient. Healthy and beautiful skin is not an overnight process. 4 tips for successful use 1. Choose the right form of retinoid. 2. Find your particular order to apply. 3. Make it a consistent part of your skin care routine. 4. Be patient. admin Zürich,Dezember 16, 2022 Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ, Wang X, Chen Y, Schneider LM, Majmudar G. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016 Mar;15(1):49-57. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12193. Epub 2015 Nov 18. PMID: 26578346. Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Quan T. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Feb;39(1):56-65. doi: 10.1111/ics.12348. Epub 2016 Jul 4. PMID: 27261203; PMCID: PMC5136519. Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, Cho S, Hanft VN, Hamilton TA, King AL, Neal JD, Varani J, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Kang S. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007 May;143(5):606-12. doi: 10.1001/archderm.143.5.606. PMID: 17515510. Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019 Aug;36(4):392-397. doi: 10.5114/ada.2019.87443. Epub 2019 Aug 30. PMID: 31616211; PMCID: PMC6791161. Thielitz A, Abdel-Naser MB, Fluhr JW, Zouboulis CC, Gollnick H. Topical retinoids in acne–an evidence-based overview. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 Dec;6(12):1023-31. English, German. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06741.x. Epub 2008 May 13. PMID: 18479477.